Peas are well-suited to cooler temperate climates. In fact, when temperatures exceed 20C (70F), most varieties of peas will stop producing pods.

Peas are part of the legume (Latin Leguminosae) family of vegetables, which extract nitrogen from the air and store it in little nodules along their roots. For this reason, when the plants finish cropping, dig the roots directly into the soil, where they will slowly decompose and release nitrogen for other plants to use.

Peas are a prime example of the difference between shop purchased vegetables and those fresh from the garden. Fresh peas win every time, on taste, texture and food value, and that includes frozen peas!

Where To Grow Peas
How To Grow Peas picture

Peas will grow on most soils, although they prefer a medium well-dug soil with plenty of organic material. Do not add nitrogen to the soil before planting (or after) - peas extract nitrogen from the air sufficient for the needs. An over-rich soil will cause lots of leafy growth, but a reduced cop of peas. Peas like moisture, so do not plant too near walls or fences.

A sunny area is best, although peas are tolerant of partial shade, especially if the shade occurs during the hottest part of the day. Maincrop peas are tall leggy plants (1.8 m / 6 ft), and they can easily be damaged if planted in areas exposed to high wind. Remember that the taller varieties will cast quite a shadow over any other crops nearby. A good plan is to use the space around the pea plants for smaller shade-tolerant plants vegetables - radishes are an excellent choice.

When To Sow Peas
By sowing a couple of varieties over a month or so, the cropping can be extended from mid-September to Mid April in Arizona. The table below shows when to sow each type and when they will crop. Specific varieties are recommended later - use the menu on the top left of this page ('pea varieties') if you want to go there now.

Peas can be sown outside with no protection in Sept. Remember if planted in pots first to harden off the seedlings prior to planting permanently. Place them outside a few hours a day to begin with. Water them well.

The peas at the bottom of the plant will tend to be ready first, so begin harvesting here, working up as time progresses. When the plant stops producing peas, cut the top of the plant off and leave the roots in the ground to compost for next year.

Pest and Disease of Peas
Mice will often eat the seeds quicker than you can sow them - if they live in your garden, there is no real cure. Some gardeners coat the seeds in paraffin, others buy a cat!

Greenfly and Blackfly - click to the left for more details on how to identify and treat these pests of peas.

The words 'broccoli' and 'calabrese' are different varieties of the same vegetable. In general terms, Calabrese produces green heads

First decide if you want to grow broccoli (smaller heads) or calabrese (larger heads). Broccoli matures in spring from sowing made the previous year, whereas calabrese types matures in mid to late summer from sowings made earlier in the same year.

Because of the large differences in sowing to harvest times for different types of broccoli, it is extra-important to examine the instructions on the seed packets. That way you won't pick the wrong variety. Broccoli is not too choosy about the site and soil. It prefers to be in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade with no problems. The ideal soil is a reasonably heavy (not pure clay) which is rich in nutrients and has been well-dug. A light soil can be improved by the addition of nutrients provided by a a general fertilizer and bonemeal. Adding bonemeal
to a heavier soil which is not too rich in nutrients will also be of benefit.

As with all vegetables avoid low lying areas which may become water-logged. Do not plant broccoli on a site which has been used for brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnip, kohlrabi) in the last two years because this will increase the chances of getting club root and cabbage root fly.

The time of sowing broccoli with no protection depends on the variety, so read the seed-packet instructions carefully. If planted in the Fall in Arizona on nights where frost danger may be possible, covering them is beneficial.

Sow the seed about 7cm (3in) apart in lines which are 60cm (2 foot) apart. Cover the seeds with 1.5cm (half inch) of crumbly soil and water well. The seeds should germinate in 10 days or so. When the seedlings appear, thin them to 22cm (9 in) apart.

Broccoli, transplants well and can be grown in a seed bed and transplanted to their final growing position as long as care is taken not to disturb the root system. Using B12 is recommended.

Calabrese and broccoli are easy to care for. When the seedlings have six or so leaves, give them a shot of Miracle Grow every two weeks

In dry weather, keep them well-watered, especially if the soil is sandy. Watering is especially important when the heads are forming. A layer of garden compost around the plants (not touching them though) will work wonders. Aside from this, and keeping the weeds at bay, they will look after themselves.

For the best broccoli (all types), begin to harvest before the flowers open. Pick both Broccoli and Calabrese regularly to ensure the heads are at their tastiest and to encourage the formation of side-shoots. Broccoli will continue to produce new shoots of smaller heads below where the main head was once the head has been picked. These should be picked before they flower also.

With Calabrese, snap or cut off the heads at the top of the stalk. Broccoli should be cut off around half way down the stalk.

Both Calabrese and Broccoli freeze particularly well. Blanch the spears for about three minutes in salted water, let them cool out of the water for five minutes and freeze them. The less water on them at the time of freezing, the better.

They will store in the fridge for about a week, but they are definitely at their best when harvested and eaten on the same day.

Broccoli Pests and Diseases

The table below identifies the most common symptoms of broccoli pest and disease, simply click on the pest or disease name for more detailed information on treatment.

Soil and Site for Cauliflower
All cauliflowers need a neutral or slightly alkaline soil to do well. If the soil is too acidic, the plants will be unable to obtain all the trace elements they need, and may develop whiptail. On the other hand, soils which are too limey or chalky can lead to stunted and discoloured cauliflower.

As with all brassicas, avoid using a plot on which a brassica crop was grown within the past two years. Cauliflowers will definitely suffer if they are grown on the same plot for two or more years in a row.

Winter Cauliflower
Winter cauliflowers are much more tolerant of soil conditions, and will grow on most types of soil, as long as there is no water-logging. Because they grow slowly over a longer period of time, and have to face winter conditions, the one thing you want to avoid is lush, rapid and therefore vulnerable growth. If plenty of mulch has been dug in, there is no need for additional fertilizers, prior to planting out winter cauliflowers. An occasional Miracle Grow will do wonders for them.

They need a sheltered, rather than exposed site, and one with some protection from north and east winds. They do better in sun rather than in the shade. Protection against Frost should be taken, by covering them.

Care of Cauliflower
The secret of success with summer cauliflowers is rapid and continuous growth. From transplanting time onwards they need copious watering, if checked at any time, they are liable to form very small heads. Even though the soil may have been very rich as a result of its preparation, it can do with even more feeding.

Mulch the soil around the plants with rotted manure or garden compost three weeks after planting, drenching it with water afterwards. When the Heads have started to form, give the plants a top dressing of nitrate of soda.

Winter cauliflowers have the hazard of too much water to contend with in the winter, as well as too little in the summer. Earth up the soil in early to mid-autumn to form a continuous low ridge. This ensure that the excess water drains away from the stem. It also helps to strengthen the plants against the winter winds. It is not necessary to feed winter cauliflower during the early part of their life, in summer or autumn.

Harvesting and Aftercare of Cauliflower
A cauliflower is ready for cutting when the upper surface of the Head is fully exposed and the inner leaves no longer cover it. Unfortunately, cauliflowers tend to mature all at once. If the weather is warm and you leave the cauliflowers in the ground once they have matured, the heads expand and they become discoloured and less appealing.

To avoid this lift some early, they will be quite edible. Alternatively, gather up the leaves and tie them together over the Head so that they cover it, using garden twine, an elastic band or raffia. It will also protect the winter ones from the frost if the Heads have grown during that time.

To keep them for two or three weeks once they are mature, lift the whole plant, including roots and hang them upside down in a cool shed and syringe them daily. Cauliflowers freeze well and you can deal with an over abundant crop by freezing the surplus for later use.

When harvesting, cut in the early morning when the plant is freshest, ideally with dew on it. During frosty weather however, it is better to wait till the warmest part of the day. Cut through the stalk with a sharp knife, leaving enough leaves around the Head to protect it.

Unlike some brassicas, the cauliflower will not produce worthwhile shoots after its head has been cut, so clear the remains of the crop as quickly as possible.

The ideal site for cabbages is any well drained ground, but they prefer a medium to light soil which will retain a reasonable amount of water. Prepare the ground with mulch, several months before sowing. If the ground has not been mulched, apply a general fertilizer before sowing.

Cabbages are ready for harvesting when the hearts are firm. Lift the entire plant with a fork and cut the roots off at a later stage, or, cut the stem just above the base of the lower leaves, and discard the outer leaves which are too coarse for eating. Mature cabbages with a good firm heart, and in good condition, can be stored in a cool, airy frost proof shed for several weeks.

Place the cabbages on a rack made of wood or chicken wire, do not stack them on the ground. Once the cabbages have been cut and stored, the crop has now finished and the ground can be cleared.

5.How To Grow Lettuce

Some varieties of lettuce are more resistant to bolting than others. The varieties Fatima and Dolly (butterhead lettuce) are both slow to bolt.

Because lettuce prefers cool conditions (great for Arizona Winters) they are ideal vegetables for inter-cropping. That is growing them near to other vegetables which crop at a different time, normally later. Plant lettuce where runner beans, broad beans, peas, brussels sprouts or sweet corn will provide them with shade in the hottest part of the day.

If you do grow lettuce near taller vegetables, take care that they are not deprived of water. Lettuce need lots of water to mature quickly and larger crops may take the lion's share of moisture. If this is the case, water the lettuce well in dry conditions.

How To Sow Lettuce

Sow every three weeks to ensure a continuous supply rather than a glut at one time - lettuces do not keep well in the ground when they have reached maturity. Use a trowel to dig out shallow drills (half inch) deep, each drill being (1ft) apart from the next. Sow three or four seeds every (6in) as shown in the right hand drill of the diagram. The seeds can be sown in a continuous row (left hand drill of diagram), although this will require more seeds and more thinning out later.

Cover the seeds with soil, firming it down with gentle pressure. If the soil is at all dry, water well. The seedlings should begin to appear in 7 to 14 days time. Gradually thin out the seedlings until they are (10in) apart.

The sowing process is the same for all lettuce at all times of the year. Where sowing in autumn for spring harvest.

Caring for Lettuce
Lettuce seedling picture

The key requirements are water and weeding. Both can be greatly assisted by laying a covering of organic material (or black plastic cut to allow the seedlings through) around the plants, this will keep the soil moist and stop the growth of weeds. It will also provide a slow but steady stream of nutrients.

Harvesting Lettuces
Harvest lettuces as soon as they mature, they will quickly bolt if left in the ground too long. When the heart of the lettuce begins to form a point and grow upwards, it is beginning to bolt and should be picked immediately. The easiest way to harvest them is to pull them out with the roots using a trowel and trim with a sharp knife.

With 'picking' lettuces, leave them in the ground, cutting the outer leaves away from the plant near the base - new shoots will soon grow to replace the harvested ones.

Pests and Diseases of Lettuce
Lettuces have a few enemies which may not kill the crop, but they will slow down growth and make the plants less healthy.

The pests are, lettuce root aphid (yellowing and decaying roots), lettuce root maggot (maggots present on the roots), greenfly and slugs. All of these can be treated using chemicals from your local garden centre. However, a few basic precautions should prevent them in the first place.

1.Weed the bed - weeds provide a home for pests and diseases.
2. Remove harvested lettuces from the ground completely, do not leave the stump in the ground. It will rot and attract the attention of pests, root aphid in particular
3. Provide them with sufficient water especially in dry periods.

4. Do not grow lettuce in the same beds as has been previously used for chrysanthemums. Doing so will increase the risk of root maggot.

The introduction of heat treated onion sets (small onion bulbs pre-started into growth before sale) now means that growing onions is almost fool-proof.

Where To Grow Onions
Picture of Onion Variety 'Red Delicious'

Onions prefer a a sunny position with a rich but light soil, however they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. For this reason it is best to prepare the soil in advance of planting. Dig the soil to (12in) deep, working in any organic matter available - remove any stones in the soil that you come across during the digging. Just before planting, tread the soil down so that it is firm.

Onions are ideal plants for growing in small confined spaces, they particularly thrive in raised beds. They are also good for keeping bets out of your garden so I suggest putting them on the outside of your garden vegetables.

When To Plant Onions
Onions should be treated differently according to their type. Each is described below.

Maincrop onion seed and sets (small, part grown onion bulbs) should be sown outside starting in October. Spring (or salad) onion seed should be sown at three week intervals from early Oct to early Feb in Arizona.

Medicinal prescriptions were found chiseled into a clay Sumerian tablet that was more than 3,000 years old. Garlic is a key ingredient to a wide variety of recipes, and is quickly becoming regarded as a natural method to prevent heart disease and cancer - it is after all the second oldest medicine in the world.

Growing garlic is well-suited to both the first time gardener and the more experienced - given the correct soil and planting time, common garlic is relatively maintenance free, yet some of the more unusual varieties provide a challenge.

Where To Grow Garlic
Grow your garlic in full sun - garlic needs to grow quickly in order to produce good sized bulbs. Pick a site that is not prone to water-logging, this will ensure the bulbs do not rot over winter.

Plant Garlic
The secret to growing garlic is to plant it in mid October - spring planting is possible in warmer areas, but even then, better sized bulbs will result from an autumn sowing. Dig the soil well to a spade's depth before planting, incorporating as much organic matter as possible to assist with drainage - garlic will rot in water-logged conditions. If you can purchase and dig in some sand (from your garden centre) at this stage, the drainage will be improved even further. A couple of handfuls of bonemeal should also be incorporated every square yard if the soil is heavy clay

Garlic bulbs for planting in Spring need not be bought from a nursery - simply choose the largest ones possible from your greengrocer or supermarket. If planting in mid October, choose a hardier variety such as 'White Pearl', these need to be bought from your local garden centre.

Harvest Garlic
Garlic is normally ready for harvesting when most of the foliage has turned yellowy-brown - this will be around mid August time. The problem with harvesting garlic is knowing when they are ripe - harvest too early and the bulbs will be small, harvest too late and the bulb will have split making harvest difficult and the cloves of low quality (they will have commenced their growing cycle for next year).

Problems will occur mainly in wet summers - the leaves may only have started to turn yellow but if the garlic is left in wet ground at this stage, the bulbs will very quickly become diseased. For this reason a second method is needed to determine what stage they have reached.

If the weather is wet in early August, pull up one bulb and see how many sheaths (very thin papery layers around the bulb) you can peel off the bulb - if there are only three, harvest the bulbs, if there are four or more, wait another two weeks or until most of the leaves have turned brown.

When harvesting garlic bulbs, gently ease them out of the ground with the assistance of using a trowel to loosen the surrounding soil - be careful not to bruise them with the trowel because they will then not keep for long.

Grow Garlic in Containers and Pots

How to Propagate Garlic
A GardenAction tip, don't try and propagate your own bulbs for two reasons. Garlic by nature is progressively diseased when growing in the soil - it is really a race against time to harvest them before their natural diseased condition affects the taste. Propagating your own garlic is a recipe for bad crops next year and also for introducing disease into your soil. The other reason for not propagating garlic is that a trip down to the supermarket or green grocer is so cheap!

Garlic itself loves to be grown in pots and containers. The soil should be well-drained and they can be fed easily. The problem is one of space and the fact that they are not particularly attractive plants. However, if you are new to gardening and want to give it a go, the garlic plants will be very happy.

The best time to plant garlic in containers is mid-October but up to mid-April is fine. Because you will be using potting compost in the pots, the cloves
can be bought from your local supermarket.

Water the containers / pots well and place them in a sunny position. If you are planting in October, then place the pots out of the way of cold winds. By the edge of the house where they still get the sun is ideal.

From early-June onwards feed with a general purpose plant food every two weeks. Harvest when the leaves turn brown.

8.How to Grow Carrots

Carrots are rich in vitamin A, calcium and trace elements and a good source of fiber. Maincrop varieties can be stored for up to three
months making it possible to have a near year round supply.

The tastiest carrots are the early varieties, which can be harvested as early as early June when they are at their most expensive in the supermarkets.

All in all, a good vegetable for the beginner gardener to try, but read the section on carrot fly carefully.

Where To Grow Carrots
Carrots prefer a light soil which has been improved with lots of well-rotted organic material fully dug into the soil. Carrots grown on heavy soil, or where organic material is not well-rotted, will become misshapen and grow 'forked. Stones in the soil will have the same bad effect.

If your soil is of the very heavy clay type you are best to grow the short varieties. They do better than the long varieties in heavy clay soil.

Prepare the bed two weeks or so before planting, forking in a handful of bonemeal for each square (yard). This is a must in heavy clay soils. Ensure that the soil is dug to a spade's depth and is of a crumbly texture.

Early carrot varieties do best in full sun, especially if they are to be harvested when young. Maincrop varieties do best with some shade especially in mid-summer.

When and How to Plant Carrots

Ever wondered why you never see carrot seed on carrots? The reason is that carrots are biennials, which means they grow one year and then produce seeds the next year. Unfortunately for carrots, we eat them in year one and they never get a chance to produce seed!

If you want carrot seed you need to over-winter the carrot and collect the seeds the next year. The seeds will then form around mid June in year two.
Collect the seeds when they are fat but dry and before they fall to the ground. Don't bother collecting seed from F1 carrots, they will not come true to type.

When To Plant Carrots
Carrots are best sown over a long period to ensure that they are ready for eating from early June to October (longer if stored correctly).

Increasing Germination results of Carrot Seeds

Once you have made your row to plant your seed sift out with a sifter a bit of potting soil. Sprinkle this in the bottom of your row.
Then place your seeds on top of that and sprinkle about one half inch of sifted potting soil above your seeds. Tap down lightly and
keep watered for the next seven days.

Looking After Carrots
The normal cultivation rules apply to carrots - water when the weather is dry, weed as required. Thinning out (removing some seedlings
to avoid over-crowding) should begin when the seedlings are about (1inch) high. Thin the maincrop carrot seedlings to (4 in) apart,
early variety carrots to (3in) apart.

Don't feed carrots, this will only encourage the greenery at the expense of the carrot growth. If your soil is sandy it needs improvement with well-rotted
compost or other humus material. The reason is that carrots like water and sandy soil does not hold water. Early carrots do better on sandy soil
compared to maincrop varieties. The reason is that they have to tolerate less of the dry weather.

Thinning out the seedlings will release the scent of carrots, and attract the attentions of carrot fly. To avoid this, perform this activity in the evening
when the carrot fly is not about. Ensure that any soil disturbed by the thinning process is firmed back down with your hand - carrot fly lay their
eggs in loose soil around the carrot seedlings.

Harvesting Carrots
Picture of carrot variety Yellowstone

When the foliage begins to wilt and shrivel up, the carrots have reached maturity. Use a fork to get the roots up, driving it in a few inches to one side
of the row, using it as a lever to loosen the roots' grip on the soil. The carrots can then be removed by hand. If the weather is particularly dry, water the
previous evening to avoid damage to the carrots.

Carrots harvested before maturity will be tender and more tasty than those left in the ground longer - pull a few up and experiment to see what suits you.

Looking After Carrots

The normal cultivation rules apply to carrots - water when the weather is dry, weed as required. Thinning out (removing some seedlings
to avoid over-crowding) should begin when the seedlings are about (1inch) high. Thin the maincrop carrot seedlings to (4 in) apart,
early variety carrots to (3 in) apart.

Don't feed carrots, this will only encourage the greenery at the expense of the carrot growth. If your soil is sandy it needs improvement
with well-rotted compost or other humus material. The reason is that carrots like water and sandy soil does not hold water. Early carrots
do better on sandy soil compared to maincrop varieties. The reason is that they have to tolerate less of the dry weather.

Thinning out the seedlings will release the scent of carrots, and attract the attentions of carrot fly. To avoid this, perform this activity
in the evening when the carrot fly is not about. Ensure that any soil disturbed by the thinning process is firmed back down with your
hand - carrot fly lay their eggs in loose soil around the carrot seedlings.

Harvesting Carrots
Picture of carrot variety Yellowstone

When the foliage begins to wilt and shrivel up, the carrots have reached maturity. Use a fork to get the roots up, driving it in a few
inches to one side of the row, using it as a lever to loosen the roots' grip on the soil. The carrots can then be removed by hand. If
the weather is particularly dry, water the previous evening to avoid damage to the carrots.

Carrots harvested before maturity will be tender and more tasty than those left in the ground longer - pull a few up and experiment
to see what suits you.

If there are too many carrots to eat at any one time they can be placed in a box of slightly moist peat or sand and placed in a cool,
frost free, dark place for storage. They should keep for a couple of months in these conditions.

They can be Frozen for several months in Vacuum packages, providing they are blanched first in Boiling water for 3 minutes and then
immediately cooled in Ice water for the same amount of time. Remove as much moisture as you can, before vacuum packing them.
Carrots are great if steamed before eating instead of boiling them.

Pests and Diseases of Carrots.
Carrot Fly is the only pest you are likely to encounter with carrots. It is a black fly about (half inch) long which lays its eggs in loose
soil around the base of the carrot foliage. The eggs mature into yellow maggots which then attack the carrots causing serious damage.

You should pay special attention to firming back the soil after any thinning or weeding, and perform this task as late in the day as
possible. The use of pelleted seed is another alternative - it will reduce the need for thinning.

Below is an extract from the GardenAction forum of a post by Mary. It sounds worthwhile trying!

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"Hi all, just a little info. After reading all the advice I could find on carrots and onions, I had a plan of attack!! I planted alternate rows
of carrot seeds and onion sets, leaving about 15 inches for weeding and walking between them. Once the carrots were about 2-3 inches
high, I earthed both them and the onions up as I had read this can help prevent carrot and onion fly, as should the alternate rows
planting thinly.

I didn't touch them, not even to thin the carrots!! Until they were ready for young carrots to be picked, and used this as my
'thinning' technique. I am pleased to report I have had not one single carrot or onion fly, and although the carrots are seriously
overcrowded, they are delicious, and only a few are twisted together.

I am now picking them every 2 days or so for the kitchen, thinning as I go, and they are now 4-5 inches long, straight, and up to
1 inch across. I will most definitely earth them up in future, and not touch during carrot fly month. I hope this info, will be useful to
anyone with carrot fly problems. Also last year, I had ants farming things in the top of my carrots, not so this year with the earthing up.

Good luck everyone , Mary"

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9. How to Grow Parsnips

Growing Parsnips
Before the potato was introduced into Europe in the late 16th century, the parsnip was largely used in cooking. Few vegetables are as easy to grow, as

nutritious or as versatile

Parsnips are available as a fresh vegetable throughout the winter, actually improving as the winter progresses and especially if a frost gets
to the roots. They can be baked, boiled or fried and the leaves can also be eaten as a green vegetable, getting double value from the crop.

The problem with growing parsnips is that they have a very long growing season. They are one of the first crops to be sown and probably
the last crop to be harvested. They occupy the land for the year, thus taking up land which could be used for growing a series of crops.

If you have a small garden you may decide against growing parsnips for this reason, although you may decide to grow a catch crop such
as radishes or lettuce, before the parsnips become established in the spring.

Where To Grow Your Parsnips
Soil is the most important factor when growing parsnips. If you have thin gravelly soil you will only get small mis-shapen roots The best
soil is rich and slightly on the heavy side, although it should not be recently manured as this causes the parsnip to fork as they do if
growing on stony ground.

Almost all well drained soils will produce a good crop. Level the bed off to give a fine tilth a day or two before sowing, which will normally
be as soon as conditions allow in Early Fall in Arizona.

Parsnips dislike very acid soil and do best in one which is slightly acid, neutral or slightly alkaline, test your soil with a soil test kit several
weeks before preparing the seed bed and if necessary, add lime to achieve a pH of 6.5. The site you choose for parsnips is not as
important as the soil, they prefer an open sunny site, but they will also grow quite happily in a lightly shaded plot.

Sowing Parsnip Seed
The traditional time to sow parsnip seed is very early fall. Although parsnips appreciate a long growing season, you can sow later, up to very early
spring if you have to, and still get a worthwhile crop. Ensure that the seed is fresh this year because parsnip seeds do not keep well.

Before sowing make sure the soil is well dug and free from stones to a spade's depth. Make a shallow drill in the soil about (¾in) deep. Where you
require more than one row, make the rows (12-18 in) apart. Sow one seed every (2in).

Because parsnip seed is so light it is advisable to wait until the weather is calm before sowing. You may be able to buy seeds that are pelleted, there
are a few parsnip varieties which are available in this form. The pelleted seed is slightly heavier, so they will not blow away so easily. After the seeds
have been sown cover them with soil, sifted soil is best for this, and then firm down. Water the area if the weather is dry. Germination takes
approximately three to four weeks and is is quite possible for the newly forming seedlings to be lost amongst the newly germinating weeds.
Weed frequently and carefully.

Many gardeners sow a quick maturing catch crop such as radish, or lettuce in between the rows. This not only will give you an extra crop but it also
helps to mark out the rows of parsnips. If you do not wish to do this, keep your marker in position until the parsnip seeds have germinated and the
rows of seedlings is obvious above the ground.

Care of Parsnips
When the seedlings are about (2 in) tall, thin them so that they are (6 inches) apart. Water, particularly during the early stages of the crop, if the
weather is dry and weed frequently. Be very careful when weeding with a hoe, if you damage the developing roots you may open the way for
attack by canker.

Harvesting Parsnips
Parsnips will be ready for harvest in mid-December. One obvious reason is that they are best left in the ground for a month or so because their
flavor is improved by some exposure to frost. Frost increases the amount of sugar in the roots. Parsnips can be harvested up to mid-January of
the following year after they are planted depending on where you live.

Small parsnips in light soil can be pulled up once the soil around them has been loosened with a fork. Normally the only way parsnips can be lifted
without breaking them is by digging. Begin at the end of the row and dig a hole beyond but close to the last parsnip. Dig the hole as deep at the
parsnip and loosen the soil around the root and then it can be easily removed without damage. Lift the next parsnip by moving the soil next to it
into the hole from which the first parsnip has been taken and continue like this to the end of the row.

You may find that you have to dig down much further than you expect, the end of a parsnip tapers off for a considerable length (6 in) or more,
and has a very strong grip on the soil. You may want to break off the thinnest part of the root if you want to avoid digging a very deep hole
possibly (18 in) deep for some roots. Once the parsnip has been lifted, cut off the remaining leaves, these are excellent compost heap material.

Parsnip Pests and Diseases

Storing Parsnips
Although the best flavored parsnips are ones that are lifted and taken into the kitchen straight from the ground, during the winter if the ground is
frozen this will not be possible. To get you parsnips during this period you should dig up some roots in the early winter for storing.

Store parsnips in the same way as you would carrots. Cut any leaves off close to the crowns and then pack them in layers of dry sand or peat in
a large wooden box. Put a lid on the top to keep our the light and place the box in a cool, dry and airy place.

Pests and Diseases of Parsnips

Disease / Pest

Symptoms

Wireworm

Small regular holes and shiny yellow larvae

Sclerotina Rot

Roots in store rotten and covered with a white

fluffy mould

Disease / Pest

Symptoms

Wireworm

Small regular holes and shiny yellow larvae

Sclerotina Rot

Roots in store rotten and covered with a white

fluffy mould

Canker

Reddish brown, dark brown or black patches on

the shoulders of the root.

Leaf Spot

Small brown spots on the leaves.

Celery Fly

White or pale brown blisters on the leaves,

leaves shrivelled.

Carrot Fly

Irregular holes in the root sometimes with small

whitish grubs inside.

10. How to Grow Ridge Cucumbers

Cucumbers
Growing cucumbers is slightly more complicated compared to some other vegetables, to say otherwise would not be telling the truth. However, the

whole subject is made over-complicated because there are two distinct variety of cucumber which require very different treatment.

There is the traditional cucumber (the long slim variety) and the ridge (or outdoor) variety. This article is concerned with ridge varieties which can be
grown outside of a greenhouse.

Cucumbers are very high-yielding. Just three plants should provide all the cucumbers needed by a small family. Unless you want to can some for Pickles.

Pollination
Ridge (outdoor) cucumbers produce both male and female flowers. The female flowers need to be pollinated by the male flowers for
cucumbers to develop. With ridge cucumbers, insects will do the job for you. Don't remove any flowers from ridge cucumbers.

I like to put small trellises in my Cucumber patch or Tomato racks for the cucumbers to climb so that the bees can see the flowers
better. You do need to pick the cucumbers as they develop so as not to break the plants with the weight of the cucumber.

How to Sow Ridge (Outdoor) Cucumber Seeds

Soil and Site Ridge Cucumbers
Ridge (outdoor) cucumbers will grow in most well-drained soil but they do not like acid soils. Prepare the soil a before sowing or
planting by adding lots of well-rooted compost. Work it into the soil with a fork.

Cucumbers need lots of sun, they won't do well in shade or partial shade. Or in the mid winter months in Southern Arizona. Also,
choose a position which is not exposed to wind.

How to Sow and Plant Ridge Cucumbers
Ridge cucumbers can be sown / planted in three different ways:

Sow seed indoors, harden them off for 2 weeks by placing them outside for a few hours at a time,
Then plant them outside when the seedlings are several inches high.
Sow seed directly outside in Feb in Phoenix, Arizona.
Buy small cucumber plants, harden them off for 2 weeks then plant outside.

The ideal method for growing cucumbers is to dig a trough about (1 foot) deep and wide. Fill in the lower (6 in)

with well-rotted compost and then cover the compost with the dug soil.

The dug soil will be higher than the surrounding soil, so form it into a ridge. The picture on the left shows a
cross-section through the soil with the compost at the bottom and the dug soil formed into a ridge.

If you have more than one ridge, then leave about (4 foot) between ridges. Where your soil is very light and free-draining then the ridge method is not suitable because the cucumber plant roots will not have sufficient moisture. In this case, dig as described above but do

not form a ridge, leave a flat surface.

Cucumber seed should be sown about (1 inch) deep and (2 foot) apart. Sow three seeds in each position with the pointed end of the
seed downwards. Water well if conditions are dry.

Pot grown cucumbers should be hardened off gradually for two weeks. When planting them out be very careful to protect the delicate
roots. The best way is to force a pot of the same size into the soil. Remove the cucumber plant and soil from the pot carefully by
turning it upside down and tapping the pot. Place the plant in the pre-formed hole in the soil and fill in with sifted soil.

How to Care for Ridge (Outdoor) Cucumbers

How to Prune Ridge (Outdoor) Cucumbers
Cucumber plants will produce too much leafy growth at the expense of fruit if they are not pruned. When the plant has produced six
sets of leaves on the main stem pinch out the growing tip with your finger nails or secateurs. This will encourage the quick growth of
side shoots and therefore fruit.

Train the side shoots which then grow over the ground or up a trellis (read the seed packet for instructions on the variety you have chosen).

As the plant begins to form cucumbers, pinch out the side shoots one set of leaves beyond the forming fruit. This will encourage
quicker fruit growth. Don't remove any flowers, fruit will form from pollinated female plants.

Care of Ridge (Outdoor) Cucumbers
Cucumbers require a constant supply of water and will need hand-watering if conditions become dry. To help retain moisture in the
soil keep weeds away and mulch with well-rotted compost or black plastic. When watering, keep the main stem dry to help prevent disease.

Feed the plants with a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer when the fruits begin to form and continue doing this at two week intervals. If the
plant requires support, regularly tie in any growing stems. Consult the seed packet for the variety you are growing.

Harvest ridge (Outdoor) Cucumbers
Cucumbers taste best when young so don't let them stay on the plant too long. They are probably best harvested when they are
around (8 in) long.

If the fruits are laying on the ground when growing, place some glass or plastic below the fruit to protect them from pest and disease.

Pest and Disease of Ridge (Outdoor) Cucumbers

Ridge (outdoor) cucumber plants are marginally less prone to disease compared to cucumbers grown in greenhouses. The main pests
and diseases are shown below. Where a pest / disease is underlined below, click on the link for much more detailed information.


Pest / Disease		Symptoms and Treatment
Red Spider Mite		Leaves turn yellow and if severe the whole plant can be tinged with a bronze colour. Eventually the plant will wilt and die. Fine silk like threads often appear, mainly on the leaves. Spray with derris or water with a small amount of dish washing liquid in it. Mist regularly with water.
Aphids (greenfly and blackfly)		This is the commonest pest of ridge cucumbers. You will see lots of small or black flies on the underside of the leaves. First spray with water and a small amount of dish washing liquid in it. Then pick of the flies with your hands. healthy plants will outgrow the attack
Slugs		The stems and some leaves will have holes in them. Around the plants there will be silver coloured slime trails. Treatment is varied. Check the Internet for much more information on getting rid of slugs.
Mosaic virus		The cucumber plant leaves will be mottled yellow and green. There is no treatment for this disease. It is spread by aphids and humans so aphid control and cleanliness is the best preventative measure.
Verticillium Wilt		The leaves become yellow at the bottom of the plant (this disease is from the soil) and the yellowing works it's way up the plant. There is no cure so dig up and burn infected plants. The best preventative measure is to keep the surrounding soil clear of all debris. Keep water away from the base of the main stem

11. How to Grow Potatoes.

Growing Potatoes
Potatoes were first grown in Peru over 200 years ago, long, long before the Irish ever got their hands on them! Aside from dairy foods, potatoes are

the most commonly eaten food in the western world.

Up to the 1800s, growing potatoes was only for the poor. Their nutritional value and taste has been appreciated more over the last
200 years and the humble potato has now become part of the standard diet of the UK and Ireland.

Growing potatoes takes up a large amount of your garden space, so think carefully before planting. It is best to concentrate on the
early potato varieties and those maincrop varieties which are unsuitable for commercial growing.

This article concentrates on how to grow two varieties of potato; "earlies" (known as new potatoes) and the "maincrop" potato.
Both types of potato are planted in a similar manner and nearly at the same time, however they are harvested at different times.
There are of course intermediate varieties which can be harvested between the two main varieties.

How To Grow Your Potatoes - Position

A potato plant will grow in most soils as long as it has been well dug. The soil should be clear of large lumps and stones. Add as much
compost as is available, or bonemeal (or similar) at the time of digging. It is a good idea to prepare the soil in mid November or December
to allow it to settle before planting and let the compost begin to break down. Although not fussy about the soil type, the potato
prefers a slightly acidic soil, so do not add lime before, during or after planting.

Picture of growing potatoes, how to grow potato
Potato plants take up a lot of room!
Choose very carefully!

The ideal position for a potatoes is a warm and sunny site with
little or no shade in the UK. Do not grow potatoes in the soil for
two years in succession, this will increase the risk of disease.

For the same reason do not plant potatoes where tomatoes
were grown the previous year. Both are from the same family

and will readily transmit diseases to each other.

Planting Potato Seed

When and How To Plant Potato Seed
Potatoes are grown from 'seed' potatoes which grow better if they are allowed to 'sprout' before planting. First purchase the seed potatoes in
late January. These are available from seed catalogues or your local garden centre. Look for seed potato which is certified as free from disease
and select healthy looking examples about the size of an egg.

The disadvantage of the catalogues and garden centres is that the number of
potato seed varieties is very limited and they are only sold in large amounts. If
you only want more variety and to buy several varieties in small amounts, the
solution is to go to one of the many potato shows around the country. For an
idea of a typical show and prices etc. click here.

Potato Seed in egg boxes In mid February, place the seeds in boxes (for small amounts, cardboard egg boxes are ideal) in a light airy position at a temperature of roughly
10°C / 50°F. See right.

The potato seed should be positioned so the the sprouts are uppermost and the 'stalk' end (where they were severed form the parent plant) is at the
bottom. Sometimes this is a bit difficult to judge, but if you get it wrong, and the potatoes sprout from the bottom end, simply rub off the sprouts and
turn the potato to the correct position. The picture below shows the stalk end of a potato which should be at the bottom when placed in the egg boxes.

Stalk end of a seed potato

As the potato seed produce sprouts, remove all but the topmost four to ensure that they receive all the goodness of the seed potato.
The ideal sprout length at planting time is 2.5cm / 1in although this is not critical. What is critical, is that the sprouts are green and not white coloured.
White sprouts are caused by not enough light. Click the picture to enlarge.

If the sprouts appear too early for planting the potatoes outside, simply rub them off cleanly and they will re-sprout in a couple of weeks time. Research
has shown that the sprouts can be removed five times without any ill effect on the sprouts which will replace them.

Mid Feb is the ideal time to plant the sprouted potatoes in the open ground in Arizona. Plant 'earlies' about 30cm / 12in apart from each other, in rows
which are 60cm / 2ft apart. Plant maincrop potatoes about 35cm / 15in apart, in rows which are 75cm / 2ft 6in apart. Where you are planting more
than one row, the rows should (ideally) run from North to South to allow each plant its full share of sun.

Dig a trench about 10cm / 4in deep, placing the potatoes in it with the sprouts pointing upwards. Hand fill the trench over the potatoes trying to avoid
damaging any sprouts. Scatter bonemeal or similar long lasting fertiliser over the top soil and rake it in.

How to Grow Potatoes For Christmas Eating
In many areas it's quite possible to grow your own potatoes for eating in October through to Christmas. Potato plants produce good sized tubers in
65 to 100 days depending on variety.

Caring for Your Potatoes
Frost damage is the first concern in the early stages. If shoots emerge above the soil level and frost threatens, draw a little soil from the bed edges over them.

After the potatoes plants have grown to about 8in pull up the soil in between the rows around the plants leaving a
few inches of the plant still showing. Repeat the exercise in two to three weeks time. The diagram to the right shows the ideal end result

During the growing season, ensure that weeds are removed and apply some long lasting fertiliser again around . A month or so after planting, the
dense foliage of the plant should then block out sufficient light to deter all but the most vigorous weeds.

As the potato plant grows, do not remove or 'stop' the foliage, it is supplying food to the tubers. However, remove any flower heads or buds which
appear because these will produce potato seeds which will divert energy from the potato tubers.

Potato Pest and Disease

How To Harvest and Store Potatoes
Potatoes are ready for harvest when the foliage first starts to die and turn yellow.
Early (new) potatoes can be lifted earlier (no earlier than June ) to get the very
tastiest potatoes. In this case, harvest them about a week after the potato plant

flowers first appear. New potatoes only produce a couple of handfuls of potatoes
per plant, so dig up the whole plant.

Maincrop potatoes will be ready for harvest in mid-Autumn (start of September at the earliest). For all potatoes, dig them up from
the side of the ridge (a fork or spade are both fine) to avoid damaging the potatoes. The foliage can be placed on the compost heap only if it completely
free from disease - if not, burn it. If you don't need all the potatoes from a plant at one time or if you want a few early in the season, simply burrow
around the roots with your hands and remove the potatoes you need. The remaining potatoes will continue to grow.

Remove any soil clinging to the potatoes and leave them on the soil for a few hours to dry out - if they are stored damp, they will rot. Leaving them
on the soil surface in the sun will harden the skin slightly, doubling the storage time - this is especially important for maincrop potatoes. Store the
potatoes in boxes or sacks, checking them every few days, removing all but those in good condition. Damaged or blemished potatoes should be
eaten immediately.

One word of caution, some potato flowers may well turn to berries which are definitely poisonous. Eaten in sufficient amounts the berries can be fatal.
You may wish to remove them if children are likely to see them.

Other Methods of Growing Potatoes
There are two common alternate methods of growing potatoes by the amateur gardener. The first is container growing. This can produce a surprisingly
amount of potatoes and is great for very small gardens.

The second method is to cover the planting area for early varieties with black polythene, simply held down with earth or bricks. The potatoes are
planted at normal depth by cutting a '+' shaped hole in the plastic and planting with a trowel. The advantages are that the soil is warmed by the
black polythene, giving the young plants protection from frost. The potatoes should be ready for harvest a couple of weeks earlier than normal.

Pests and Diseases of Potatoes
Potatoes grown from stock certified as free from disease and planted in soil not occupied by potatoes the previous season, are relatively free from pests
and diseases. The most common ailments to affect potatoes are potato blight scab, slugs, and wireworm. There is little
protection available that can effectively solve these problems.

Potato blight has two phases - the first attacks the leaves, the second attacks the potatoes themselves. If your potatoes are attacked by the blight,
here is no cure. However, cut the foliage back to 5cm (2in) from the ground at the first signs of infection. This will prevent the blight from getting to
the potatoes themselves. With no foliage, the potatoes will not give of their best, but they will continue to grow for a month or so.

Potato Pictures By Variety

Which Varieties of Potatoes
The potatoes in the table below are all recommended varieties for the home gardener.

Potatoes are affected by the type of soil in which they are grown, so try a couple of
varieties before deciding which is correct for your garden.

Name	Skin	Flesh	COOKING
Name	Skin	Flesh	New	Boil	Steam	Mash	Chip	Saute	Bake	Roast
EARLY
Maris Bard	White	White	Y	Y	Y	Y		Y
Winston	White	Cream	Y	Y	Y				Y
Rocket	White	White	Y	Y	Y			Y

MAINCROP
Estima	Yellow	Yellow		Y	Y	Y		Y	Y
Valor	White	Cream		Y	Y	Y	Y	Y	Y	Y
Desiree	Red	Yellow		Y		Y	Y	Y
King Edward	Red/ White	Cream		Y	Y	Y	Y	Y	Y	Y
SALAD
Charlotte	Yellow	Yellow	Y	Y				Y
Nicola	Yellow	Yellow	Y	Y	Y	Y		Y

New varieties of potatoes are constantly being introduced. The aim of potato breeders nowadays is to maintain a good taste, but make the potatoes
resistant to slugs and blight. This is where the 'Hairy Bolivian Potatoes' make their comeback!

Many of our potatoes today originate from potatoes from Bolivia. These potatoes were capable of growing on the snowline of mountains at very high
altitudes. They survived through these cold conditions because the foliage was covered with fine hairs. This gave the leaves an insulating layer to
protect them from frost. Potato breeders are inter-breeding these old original potatoes with our new varieties to get the best taste and also better
frost resistance.

Another benefit of the layer of hair on the leaves is increased resistance to 'blight', the major potato disease. Blight is an airborne disease where the
blight 'spores' are blown by the wind onto the leaves of potatoes. Here, they send out little roots which enter the potato leaves and infect the entire plant.
With the layer of hair however, the spores land on the hairs and have to send out their little roots much further to infect the leaves. In most instances,
the spores are so exhausted by the time they reach the leaves, that they die before infecting the plant.

So, if you notice that new varieties, after 1990, have hairier leaves, don't worry, it's the latest in potato fashion.

Type		Sow	Harvest	Sow to Harvest
First Early		Mid September	Mid November	12 weeks
Second Early		Mid November	Mid Jan to Feb	14 weeks
Maincrop		Mid Jan	Mid April to May	15 weeks

	Prepare the soil in Beginning of September to allow it to settle. Dig to at least a spade's depth (the roots of peas like to grow deeply), incorporating as much organic material as possible. Peat (or peat substitute) is fine because peas 'fix' nitrogen into their roots from the air and have little need for a nitrogen rich soil. Add a handful of bonemeal (two if the soil is poor) per square metre (yard), and incorporate it into the top soil.

Disease	Symptoms
Clubroot	Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are a thick distorted mass.
Downy Mildew	Light grey powdery patches on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring. The mildew will get right into the plant, eventually killing it.
Aphids	These are greenfly and blackfly which will be clearly visible on the leaves and especially tender young shoots. These seriously weaken the plant.
Cabbage Root Fly	Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. The roots are black and rotting.
Caterpillars	These are visible as they much their way through the leaves. The cure is simply to pick them off by hand.

Disease / Pest	Symptoms
Club Root	The first signs of infection are wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant.
Cabbage Root fly	Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten.
Cabbage Gall Weevil	Stunted growth, and mis-shapen roots
Wirestem	Rotting stems on seedlings
Downy Mildew	Light grey powdery patches on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring. The mildew will get right into the plant, eventually killing it.

Disease / Pest	Symptoms
Cabbage root fly	Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten.
Club root	The first signs of infection are wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant.
Cabbage Caterpillars	Holes in the leaves

Fill a 5 inch pot (slightly smaller or larger will do) with normal potting compost (don't use soil from the garden). Plant one clove per pot in an upright position with a 5 inch pot, (1in) below the soil surface - looking at the clove in the picture to the right, the bottom of the clove should be lowest in the ground.